February, 1873It was not until the 11th of February that we succeeded in getting a dhow to take us across to Zanzibar, for which we sailed that morning, accompanied by Père Horner of the French mission, who was en route for a short and sorely needed holiday.
The wind fell light when we, in company with some other dhows, were half-way across, and two of the Daphne's boats looking out for slavers came among us and visited our dhow, and shortly afterwards boarded another, which I believed proved a prize. Having now drifted far to the south it was decided to anchor, but just before sunset a fresh breeze sprang up, and thus favoured we reached the town of Zanzibar.
Here we found the Punjâb, and Captain Hansard insisted on our taking up our quarters on board during his stay, an arrangement which was far more comfortable than living in the English gaol.
All the stores that we had ordered in England were on board, as also an extra supply of ammunition, two Abyssinian tents supplied by the Indian Government, and a portable india-rubber boat by Matthews, of Cockspur Street, for which we were indebted to the thoughtful kindness of Major Euan C. Smith, C.S.I., Secretary to Sir Bartle Frere, who telegraphed for them whilst we were at Cairo; and thoroughly good and useful they proved. Murphy having been granted leave by the Indian Government also came by the Punjâb.
At Zanzibar we took the opportunity of completing our outfit as far as possible at the stores kept by Tarya Topan, French Charlie, Rosan, and the various Portuguese Joes, gathering together those little odds and ends so necessary in rough travel. For a caravan should be as thoroughly independent as a ship, or even more so, since after having started from the coast no opportunities occur of purchasing such small items such as needles, thread, buttons, &c., &c., on which much comfort in a great measure depends.
Tarya Topan was one of the most influential of the Indian traders, and was also more inclined to assist us than any other.
French Charlie was an oddity who required to be known to be appreciated, and from being cook at the English consulate had now arrived at an important position in society at Zanzibar. All H.M. ships arriving there he supplied with fresh beef and bread, and he was proprietor of the only approach to an hotel in the island. He had a miscellaneous collection of stores of all sorts and descriptions, and being utterly unable to read or write had a most imperfect knowledge of what he possessed, and was content to ask a would-be purchaser to overhaul his stores, and if he succeeded in finding what he required to give a fair price for it.
Without learning English he had partially forgotten French, an amusing mixture of the two being the result. It is needless to say his affairs are rather in disorder; but nevertheless he thrives and is prosperous, one reason for this being his great generosity, for I believe few could find it in them to cheat him.
Rosan was an American who kept a miscellaneous store; and the Portuguese Joes and Goanese doing business as tailors, hair-cutters, grog-sellers, and in fact turning their hand to anything and everything.
Dr. Kirk obtained for us letters of recommendation for the Sultan and, what was perhaps still more important, from the Indian merchant who farms the customs, to whom nearly every trader in the interior owes money, so that his injunctions could not lightly be disregarded.
We were entertained at farewell dinners at the consulate and on board the flagship Glasgow, and again took our departure for Bagamoyo in a dhow well laden with our belongings. On arrival we had the satisfaction of being effusively and noisily welcomed by our men, who had, wonderful to relate, kept out of mischief during our absence.
Without delay we settled down to work, and re-entered with unflagging zeal into the task of engaging pagazi, the rapid approach of the rainy season or masika, which would render travelling more difficult, making every day's delay an important matter. I numbered the rifles which had been supplied to the expedition by the War Office and served them out to the men, who were exceedingly proud of being armed with Europeans guns; and I may add that during the whole expedition they kept their arms under very trying circumstances in a condition that would be a credit to any soldier.
March, 1873Finding that pagazi came forward very slowly, and that those actually engaged could never be collected together, I resolved to form a camp a short distance out in the country to prove that we intended to start immediately, and that therefore nothing would be gained by men holding back with the hope that higher rates of pay might be offered. By this means I also introduced some form of discipline into the heterogeneous mass of which our party was composed. With this object Dillon and I went out prospecting, and fixed on a lovely spot some four miles from the town near a plantation called Shamba Gonéra.
Just before making this move rather an unpleasant fracas occurred one morning when inspecting arms and seeing the donkeys watered. It originated in a dispute between a slave-girl and one of our boys who had charge of the riding donkeys as to which should first draw water at the well. An Arab rushed at the boy and commenced trashing him, upon which one of the askari flew at the Arab and hit him over the head with a big stick, knocking him down and nearly stunning him; but as I could not approve of such summary justice I had the askari arrested.
No sooner had the Arab recovered from the effects of the blow that he made off, vowing vengeance, and in less than five minutes was back foaming at the mouth, brandishing his sword, and swearing that he would "kill a dog of a Nazarene and then die happy!" He was followed by a crowd of yelling and infuriated friends, who were, however, wise enough to prevent him from carrying out his murderous intention. I ordered our men to return their arms and remain perfectly passive, as there seemed every prospect of a serious row; and it would have been impossible to prevent one had a rifle been fired.
Dillon, Murphy and myself were altogether unarmed, but had to walk up and down between our men and the crowd and appear perfectly cool, though once or twice the madman - for by this time he had worked himself in a state of fury which could not be distinguished from madness - broke loose and, before his friends could seize him again, came close enough to make it unpleasant. Once he approached me so nearly that I was calculating the chances of being able to catch his wrist to prevent him cutting me down.
After a time Jemadar Issa appeared with the Balooches forming the garrison and scattered the crowd, and I informed him that having made a prisoner of the man who struck the blow I expected him to secure the Arab, with which request he promised compliance, and we returned to our lodgings.
Shortly afterwards in came our landlord in much alarm telling us that the Arab and his friends had broken into his shop, turned everything topsy-turvy, and threatened to kill him if he refused to show the way to our rooms, but that the Balooches had dispersed them. I again sent for Jemadar Issa, acquainting him that the British flag had been insulted by the attack on the house over which it was flying, and unless he arrested the culprit at once I should refer the matter to the admiral at Zanzibar. At the same time I despatched messengers to Jemadar Sabr requesting his immediate presence to restore order.
A lull now took place, and, a passing thunderstorm having afforded us a large supply of water, we thought it a capital opportunity for washing our dogs. And whilst engaged in this interesting operation, in a light costume consisting only of pyjamas and soapstuds, the turban of Jemadar Sabr appeared at the top of the ladder, and we had to bolt incontinently and dress sufficiently to receive him with due respect.
At first he professed his inability to do anything; but we upheld our rights as Englishmen and still insisted that the man who had threatened and insulted us should be secured, or we would report the case to Zanzibar, adding that he well knew that if we adopted such a course neither his nor Jemadar Issa's place would be worth five minutes' purchase.
Both the Jemadars still attempted to run with the hare and hunt with the hounds; but seeing that we were determined not to withdraw from the position we had assumed promised compliance with our demands, and in the evening reported the man was in prison.
Two day's palaver about the matter then followed. We wish the man to acknowledge his offence or to be sent to Zanzibar to be dealt with by the Sultan; whilst the two Jemadars and the principal inhabitants desired that no further action might be taken in the affair.
On the third day the father of the offender, a fine, dignified, grey-bearded old Arab, called on us and made me feel almost ashamed of myself by kneeling down and kissing my hands. His son was very ill he said, and promised that himself and some of the principal inhabitants would be responsible for his actions. This old man's humiliation was more than I could bear and I readily agreed to the immediate release of his son, but added that in future we should all carry pistols, and told him to caution his son that if he again attempted to draw his sword near any of us we should immediately shoot him down.
Thus this disagreeable business was concluded, and, I believe, did us no injury but rather good, as it proved that, although we would not allow ourselves to be insulted with impunity, we were not at all vindictive.
Very shortly afterwards we moved to Shamba Gonèra and pitched our tents under a clump of large mango trees on an open grassy slope, at the bottom of which was a stream running to the Kingani. The donkeys, numbering twenty-four, were picketed at night in two lines and in the daytime were tethered in such places as afforded good grass and shade, the riding donkeys having in addition a feed of corn.
Much opposition to our obtaining porters being still offered at Bagamoyo, and the people, taking advantage of our desire to start, becoming more extortionate, I wrote to Dr. Kirk asking if he would pay us a visit in order to show that we were stil under the ægis of the British Fovernment. Although very busy he came almost immediately in the Daphne, and used his influence, which is greater than that of any one else at Zanzibar, to assist us.
Accompanied by Captain Bateman of the Daphne, and some of the officers of that ship, Dr. Kirk visited our camp and told us that he was delighted with all he saw, at which remark from so experienced a traveller we were much gratified.
The result was that affairs went more smoothly for a time, but in a few days returned into the old groove. There was no doubt that Abdûllah Dina, whom we employed as a sort of agent, and Jemadar Issa, notwhistanding profuse asseverations that they were doing their utmost to help us, were really thwarting us in every way. They argued that the longer we were detained the more money they would make out of us.
The establishment of the camp at Shamba Gonèra proved of no service as far as keeping the men together was concerned, for the moment they received their rations they disappeared again into the town. I thought at one time of sending Dillon and Murphy with the man we had engaged to Rehenneko or Mbumi, on the other side of the Makata swamp, there to await my arrival with such additional pagazi as I could collect; but I found this impracticable, as Murphy, having exposed himself too much to the sun and dew, was unable to travel.
I then compromised matters by sending under the charge of Dillon all the men we could nuster and most of the donkeys to Kikoka, the outpost station of H.H. Syud Burghash, on the other side of the Kingani.
Soo after his departure both Murphy and myself had a sharp attack of fever, but whilst I was fortunate in shaking it off in three days it seemed inclined to keep a hold upon Murphy, and I therefore asked Dillon to return and give him the benefit of medical treatment.
The same day a letter arrived from Dr. Kirk stating that Sir Bartle Frere and staff were coming to Bagamoyo in the Daphne, and requesting me to inform the French mission of the same. I at once rode over to deliver this message, and also mentioned Murphy's illness, when Père Germain insisted on proceeding to our camp and taking him on a litter to the mission, that he might be nursed in the infirmary.
The Daphne arrived the next day, and Sir Bartle on landing was welcomed by all the Hindis in the place, a set of cringing sycophants who had done all that lay in their power to hinder us during the whole time we had been at Bagamoyo, but now came to make their salaams to the big man and assure him of their loyalty and non-participation in the slave trade. Sir Bartle remained the entire day at Bagamoyo, but his staff went to the Kingani to try their hands at the hippopotami with which the riber swarmed.
Another volunteer came to us in the Daphne, Robert Moffat - a grandson of Dr. Moffat and nephew of Dr. Livingstone - who, hearing of the expedition, had sold a sugar plantation at Natal which formed his sole inheritance, and hastened to Zanzibar prepared to devote all his energies and every penny he possessed to the cause of African exploration.
It may perhaps be well to mention that Zanzibar is not alone the town or even the island commonly so called, but is the correct term for the whole of the Sultan's dominion, meaning "the coast of the blacks." Uguja is the native name for the town of Zanzibar.
I took advantage of Moffat's having joined to proceed at once with Dillon to Rehenneko, leaving Moffat and Murphy to bring up the rear division of the caravan, as this course would allow the latter to recover and give the former a chance of completing his kit. And having - with the assistance of Moffat, who proved willing and hardworking - mustered all the men I possibly could, we loaded them and the donkeys and started for Kikoka.
March, 1873From having unwisely worn slippers while walking in the long grass near our camp, my feet had been cut and poisoned, and were now covered with small sores which prevented my putting on boots, or moving around with any degree of comfort, so I mounted a donkey and led the way.
At the outset we marched over grassy country, and all went merry as a marriage bell until we reached Stanley's famous bridge across a muddy creek.
This my donkey, "Jenny Lind", refused to face, and on my getting off to lead her broke away and bolted back to Shamba Gonèra, leaving me to wade across this place with bare feet and to struggle through black and sticky mud for the remainder of the journey to the Kingani. This caused the sore places on my feet to become more inflamed that I could not even wear slippers on arriving at the river. Here we and our stores were ferried over without delay, but it was too late to get the donkeys across that night.
Neither our tent nor cook had arrived, so we had no alternative but to sleep out on the river bank and make our supper from the garden of a Balooch who was supposed to guard the ferry. Luckily the night was fine, and we slept comfortably alongside a large fire.
We were astir by break of day, and before the ferryman was ready to tow the donkeys across amused ourselves by potting at the numerous hippopotami. A huge crocodile floating downstream towards the ferry varied our sport, and I succeded in lodging a bullet and a shell in the middle of his back. He gave a convulsive plunge, throwing his whole length at least six feet into the air, and then sank to be no more seen.
The donkeys being landed on the northern bank without accident, and the tent and cook having turned up, we started for Kikoka, arriving there at eleven o'clock.
Moffat, who had accompanied me thus far, I now sent back to Bagamoyo with my parting orders to Murphy, and then with Dillon endeavoured to collect our men for the road. This was not an easy matter, for notwithstanding our distance from Bagamoyo its Circean charms proved so strong that there were always thirty or forty absentees at the morning muster.
I offered the guard at the ferry a reward if they would not allow any of my men to cross without a pass from me; but this proving ineffectual, I sent Bombay with a party of askari back to Bagamoyo to hunt up the absentees and bring them out loaded with food.
At the end of four days - which I afterwards heard he had spent loafing about Abdûllah Dina's - he returned without bringing in any of the deserters.
Whilst Bombay was away a Comoro man called Issa, who had acted as interpreter aboard the Glasgow and held very good certificates, volunteered to join the expedition, and as I required a native leader for Murphy's portion of the caravan, I engaged him. His duties were eventually to be those of storekeeper and interpreter of the main body, being the only man who could read and write; and on his account of his having travelled in Manyuéma and other countries rarely visited by caravans I trusted that his experience would stand me in good stead.
During our stay at Kikoka two caravans of Wanyamwési bringing down their own ivory passed us, but I could not tempt any of their number to join us as porters for the up journey, as they wanted to have their spree at Bagamoyo before returning to their own homes.
