July, 1873The Mgunda-Mkali on which we were now entering, was only just beginning to be cleared when Burton an Speke were in the country.

Few watering-places were then known, and provisions were obainable in one locality alone between Mdaburu and Unyanyembé. Consequently travellers were obliged to cross by forced marches, and no caravan succeeded in passing it without losing a considerable number of porters on the road.

Now, however, things are muh changed for the better; the Wakimbu, a tribe of Wanyamwési driven by wars from their former homes, having attacked the jungle. Water has been found in many places, large spaces have been cleared and brought into cultivation, and under the dominion of man, some of the most fertile and peaceful spots in Africa are now scattered in the midst of what was formerly virgin forest affording shelter only to wild beasts.

After passing one or two clearings and a few pools covered with yellow waterlilies, we camped near two villages situated amidst jungle at a height of 3,938 feet above the sea - the country still rising rapidly.

The following day we arrived at Pururu, a village of Wakimbu situated in a very picturesque valley, where we intended to halt for a few hours to purchase food before making an afternoon march to the next camping-place. But we had scarcely settled down when a great disturbance arose amongst our men who seized and loaded their guns, exclaiming that there was a row with the natives.

Taking our rifles we went towards the village which we found prepared to resist attack, the gates closed and guns and spears protruding through the stockade by which it was surrounded.

A single accidental shot would now have been sufficient to originate a fight which might have had disastrous consequences, for the natives were all well under cover, and had any of our men been killed or wounded it would have resulted in the remainder bolting.

At this critical moment we decided to drive our men back to the halting-place, and then directed Issa to enquire of the chief the cause of the hostile attitude assumed by the village, our men being in such a state of mingled fright and excitement that no reliable explanation could be obtained from them.

The chief's statement was that our second kirangosi, who had come from Bagamoyo with Murphy, had taken ivory from this village on the understanding that he would exchange it for powder at Zanzibar; but being a Mnyamwési he had failed to procure any ammunition for the village, orders having been issued that no Mnyamwési should be allowed to take powder from the coast whilst the war continued between the Arabs and Mirambo.

To make ammend he had offered the chief some cloth; but its value was not considered equal to that of the ivory with which he had been entrusted.

In order to arrive at an understanding, the chief and some of the headmen wanted to talk the matter over quietly with him. To this he objected and his chums commenced hustling the chief, saying, "Don't you treat our kirangosi like that," and then the row began.

On our promising to investigate the case and see justice done, peace was instantly restored.

We then accepted the invitation of the chief to enter the village, which was clean and tidy. The huts were flat-roofed and built in the form of long parallelograms, the whole being surrounded by a heavy stockade with only two entrances. Over each of these was a sort of crow's-nest, where the defenders of the gate took up their position and were furnished with a supply of large stones to be used on the attacking party coming to close quarters.

After sitting and talking for some time we were offered pombé if we would remain a little longer; but we preferred going to our tents, which had been pitched since it was too late to contemplate going further. Shortly after we returned to our quarters this hospitable chief and half-a-dozen men appeared with huge pots of pombé, which they handed to us after tasting the liquor themselves to prove that it was not poisoned.

I discovered that the kirangosi who had caused the trouble and delay possessed sufficient cloth to satisfy the demands of the village, and I therefore ordered him to pay as he acknowledged the debt, though he had attempted to plead poverty to avoid paying the amount in full.

Upon this decision the villagers gave themselves up to rejoicing, and were drumming, singing, dancing, and drinking until four o'clock in the morning.

We made a move at seven o'clock, and marched through wooded country with numerous large outcrops of granite, both in sheets and boulders, and small rocky hills on the sides of the larger slopes, and arrived at a pretty little pond in convenient time to halt for breakfast and a rest during the noonday heat.

Butterflies - which I always found in a dry country a sure sign that water was near - were very numerous by this pond, and I noticed at least ten different varieties.

Marching again through similar country, we reached the Mabunguru nullah, the westernmost affluent of the Ruaha, about sunset. Even at this period of the dry season it was almost a river, stretches of its channel a mile or two in length being full of water and separated from each other only by sand-banks from fifty to a hundred yards wide.

These creeks were now thirty yards across, and there were signs of the water in flood spreading two hundred yards on either side. I do not suppose it to be a permanent stream during the rainy season, but more probably it goes off in freshets, the whole country being very rocky and therfore able to absorb but little water.

On the road we interchanged greetings with an Arab caravan, and ascertained that an account of Dr. Livingstone having returned to Unyanyembé was untrue; but doubtless the man who told us had been misinformed and did not intentionally deceive us.

Numberless tracks of large game were passed, as also bones of animals, one skull being that of a rhinoceros, frequently met with in these districts.

Our next day's march, also a double one, was through much cultivated land, and, according to report the country had once been much more thickly populated; but two or three years previously a party of wild Wanyamwési had looted it and destroyed many villages.

The men seemed delighted at getting towards the end of the first portion of our journey, and during the latter part of this day the kirangosis kept up a sort of recitative, the whole caravan joining in chorus with pleasing effect.

Dillon and I started in front of the caravan in search of sport; but people from villages a short distance in front had been about and everything was scared, though fresh marks of antelope and buffalo were abundant.

We pitched our camp on the banks of a little ziwa embosomed in grass and covered with red, white and yellow waterlilies.

Cattle being cheap we purchased a bullock for our men, but the brute broke away and galloped off at a furious rate when being driven into camp, and we had to give chase and shoot him down.

Jiwé la Singa (the rock of soft grass) was the point to be aimed at on our next journey. The road was across a clearing, extending as far as the eye could reach, and which boasted of many herds of cattle, populous, stockaded villages and much cultivation.

The fields were divided by ditches and banks, and in one place we saw some rude attempts at irrigation. To cultivate these fields must require a considerable amount of perseverance and industry, the ground being neatly hoed into large ridges; and each year when preparing for a new crop these are turned completely over so that the ridge of one year becomes the trench of the next.

The villages I visited were remarkably clean, and the huts wonderfully well-built considering the means and materials at disposal. Indeed, except in the matter of "book-learning," these people cannot be considered as occupying a low place in the scale of civilisation.

We were now crossing the watershed between the basin of the Rufiji and those of the Nile and Kongo.

Having been unnecessarily delayed owing to our stupid kirangosi leading us round two sides of a triangle, we did not reach Jiwé la Singa until two in the afternoon, whereas many of our people who followed the direct route arrived in camp at noon. It is a prosperous place, and some Wamerima from Bagamoyo have settled there as traders.

They welcomed us with expressions of the highest esteem, even asserting that they regarded us much in the same light as their own ruler, Syud Burghash. Therefore they suggested that we could not well refuse them some paper, powder, needles, thread, and such small articles, thinking no doubt they had paid handsomely for them by their compliments. One who had been to Katanga told me that the Portuguese had established there a regular trade in ivory, copper and salt.

Here we were delayed two days by the necessity of laying in provisions that we hoped might last us to Unyanyembé, and the appearance of a new moon during this halt caused us some trouble.

To celebrate the event according to Mohammedan custom, our askari commenced firing their rifles, and would not desist when desired to do so. One man to whom I had individually spoken discharged his rifle in despite of my orders, upon which I had him disarmed and promised punishment on the morrow. Another then suggested that I had better punish them all, as it was their custom and they intended to follow it, and him I also disarmed.

This custom of firing on the occasion of a new moon was not only a waste of ammunition but was also very dangerous, as the men never looked in what direction their rifles were pointing but sent the bullets whizzing about the camp. I therefore determined to put a check upon the practice.

When about to proceed, on July 26th, I found that some pagazi as well as the askari who had been disarmed for disobedience of orders when "moonstruck" had deserted; but one of these pagazi was exceptionally honourable, for though personally breaking his engagement he had been thoughtful enough to hire another man to carry his load as far as Unyanyembé.

Crossing two small ranges of rocky hills and then through forest and jungle with many palmyras, we halted for breakfast; and resuming our march continued on the move until sunset, when we were obliged to camp without reaching water.

On the way several antelopes and a lemur were seen, and Bombay and Issa reported having passed a herd of twelve elephants.

Suddenly there was great excitement amongst the men, and a cry was raised that a venomous snake was in camp. They immediately rushed upon it with their sticks and when I arrived it was so mangled and crushed that it was impossible to discover the species whether venomous or not. The men declared that its bite was deadly, for the notion usual amongst uneducated people that every snake is poisonous prevailed here.

Kipireh, the point we had hoped to reach the night before so as to enjoy the advantage of its fresh spring water, was arrived at two hours after leaving camp; and here a dispute arose between ourselves and our men.

The day being still young and the inhabitants assuring us that water was to be found a short way in front, we thought it best to push forward, although our kirangosi declared that we could not arrive at any watering-place till the next day. Suspecting the kirangosi of laziness, and the natives appearing unfriendly, we forced our men forward; but after marching another mile were obliged to allow them to halt.

This I thought a favourable opportunity for calling all the askari before me and giving them a lecture as to their duties, in the vain hope of making them behave better for the future.

The halt being long, I went with my dog Leo as a companion to look around, and noticed some well-constructed fences and pitfalls for game. One of these pitfalls had been cleverly placed in a slight gap in a fence which I thought was merely a weak spot and made straight for it. Fortunately for me, Leo jumped on the covering just as I was about to step on it, and exposed the trap by falling through, thus saving me from a very nasty tumble. The pit was so deep that it was with difficulty I managed single-handed to pull the unfortunate dog out; but on succeeding I was delighted to find him unhurt.

After our rest we toiled on through alternating tracts of jungle and prairie, and to add to our troubles the grass had been burnt in many places, leaving miles of country blackened and charred, while the gritty ashes filled our mouths, ears, and throats, aggravating a thousandfold the suffering of thirst.

Sunset came upon us and yet we had found no water, and not until nearly 8 p.m. did we discover a pool of liquid mud with which we were obliged to be content.

From this it was plain that the natives at Kipireh had wantonly deceived us, and we were compelled to admit that our kirangosi was right in advising a halt near that village.

Shortly after moving onward the next morning, some tolerably clean water lying in a cavity in a bed of granite gladdened our eyes. Directly we sighted it the men threw down their loads, and in a moment a mingled mass of men, dogs, and donkeys were all slaking their thirst at one and the same time.

A fair idea of our daily life and routine may be gathered from the introduction here of a few pages of my journal.

"July 28th. - Off at seven for Ki Sara-Sara, which we reached at 11.15. The country just the same - large rocks scattered about, soil sandy or a black loam lying on the granite; open woods with occasional small mbugas or plains. Lots of tracks, but no game to be seen. Just after leaving camp we found a pool of water in a sheet of granite. It would had been a blessing had we known of it before, as the water we had been using was so thick that the 'pegs' had been calling it pombé in derision. Nearly all the grass had been burnt in the woods, and all the kambi we have passed have shared the same fate, as the fires are left burning and any breeze scatters the sparks and away flashes the grass. One passes tracts of miles at a time as black as a coal; I can't say my hat, or my boots, as the first is white, and the second are brown. One donkey died to-day of a sort of low fever which seems to attack the coast donkeys. The Wayamwési thriving wonderfully. Water supposed to be scare at the camp. but we found some by digging about two feet close to the tents. I fancy water must lie all about here on the top of the granite, which is everywhere close to the surface, as the whole rainfall is either absorbed or evaporated, there being no drainage.

"Another pagazi ran last night; it is very considerate of them now, as it will save their pay at Unyaniembé. Some men came in from there today and say that there are numerous robbers about the road in front and we must look out or we shall lose some loads. They talk to a road to Ujiji of twenty-five marches; but fourteen of these are without food, so the bother would be to carry it; otherwise it would be grand to be there in five weeks from Unyanyembé. I think I shall try and get some more donkeys at Unyanyembé, as where there are grass and water they are all right.

July 29th. - Got away in the morning. On account of another pagazi having run, were delayed till past eight. About twelve we arrived at some puddles of water, which, in the rainy season form part of a river, according to the natives; but as the whole country shows signs of being a swamp in the rain and there is no riverbed I expect they only form a long narrow pond. Game very plentiful, and one of the pagasi got a zebra after a very long stalk. Dillon and I went out; we saw several antelopes and a herd of mimba or gnu, at which we got a long shot, and I think both hit on our first barrels, as the shells burst and did not send up any dust; but they (the gnu) were off 'like a flash of greased lightning through a gooseberry bush.' There were tracks and droppings of all sorts of four-footed animals, and if one only had time to devote a few days to shooting this would be a perfect hunter's paradise.

"On our return to camp we found a caravan we had heard of at Ki Sara-Sara passing through. The mtongi was a handsome old Arab, with a beard perfectly white, but he was as lively on his pins as a kitten. He says all the Arabs have left Unyanyembé to go after Mirambo, who has now lost his last village, and is being hunted in the bush. The only Arab now in Taborah is a cripple, so we shall find the place quite deserted. Course N.W. seven miles.

July 30th. - Got off a little after seven. I went off to one side in the bush with Issa and tried for game; but having to work down wind saw nothing but two antelopes, which were out of range, and some monkeys. I thought three and a half hour enough of this, and began to work in towards the road, and took my fowling-piece instead of the heavy rifle and had two or three shots at birds. Soon after I was met by some excited askari, who thought the firing must have been caused by meeting with Watuta (a wild tribe and much feared) or Ruga-Ruga (bands of brigands of any tribe). I got back to the road as soon as possible, and found all the caravan halted and in a great funk. I got them on again, and we arrived at the first village in Urguru at one o'clock, where we formed our camp. Soon after the tents were pitched a messenger came in from the chief of the district of Urguru, saying that the Arabs of Taborah had sent to ask him to look out for us, and wanted to know (this being the case) why we had stopped just short of his capital, which was only half an hour in front. I sent and said we were too tired and hot to strike camp again them, but that as I found we wanted provisions we would halt there (at his village) the next day to getsome. The country seems very fertile, and water underlies the surface soil everywhere; at least digging three or four feet in the depressions always gave a supply.

July 31st. - Marched at 7.30 A.M., and arrived at eight. The village was large and clean, and surrounded by a stockade or the outer walls of houses. The part where the chief lived was divided off from the rest of the village, as also was the gateway. The gates were heavy slabs of wood hewn out of the solid trunk, and people could only go up to the principal ones one at a time, a wing of palisading projecting on either side in the form of a long U wih holes to use spears and arrows through, so that it would be dangerous for an enemy to attempt to force the gate. There were some other doorways in the outer walls of the houses, forming part of the enceinte, which closed in a sort of portcullis fashion. A number of heavy logs had holes in their upper ends, anf the wall plate was rove through them; when the doorway is open these logs are triced up, inwards, out of the way; when closed, the outer sides of the lower ends butt against a strong fixed log, and are secured by a movable log inside.

"The chief was the best-dressed man I had seen amongst the natives. He wore a handsome double Indian déolé and a Muscat Sohari, masses of sambo on his legs, heavy bangle and wire, from which hung an ornament, made out of the bottom of a shell brought from the coast, and ground down till quite white and smooth, called a Kiongwa. He was apparently lighter in colour than most of his subjects.

"The people kept a large number of pigeons and a few fowls and sheep. Provisions about the average price, i.e. ten kibabah to a shukkah. We had visitors in our tents all day, and at night found that they had left evidences of their presence behind them.

August, 1873"On the 1st of August we left our friends at Urguru and made a long march through a forest with great quantities of game, and reached Simbo. During this march Murphy saw a giraffe, but seemed so occupied with staring at it that he forgot to use his rifle until the animal was out of range.

Passing through an open grassy strip, Dillon and I went after some buffalo; but they winded the caravan and were off before we could get within range. We then came to more forest, and each took one side of the road, and saw many antelopes. I shot one, but was disappointed of my price through being unable to extricate it from a tangled mass of thorns into which it had run to die.

Partridges and jungle-fowl were plentiful, and in one place I flushed a flock of guinea-fowl that quite darkened the sky, but unfortunately I was only provided with shell and ball cartridge.

During this solitary ramble, when in some jungle of thick growth, I suddenly came up a heavy stockade partially covered over. It struck me at once that this might be a halting-place of the dreaded Ruga-Ruga, then hovering about in the neighbourhood, and against whom we had been warned. I therefore approached most cautiously, and, seeing no signs of it being tenanted, ventured to the entrance. On looking I saw many pots and cooking ustensils lying near the still smouldering fire which proved that it must have been occupied but a short time previously, as also skins, and well-picked bones of animals which had doubtless provided the morning meal.

My suspicions being thus confirmed I left as stealthily as I had approached; and I need hardly say that I did not continue my attempt at making a bag, fearing that the report of firearms might have attracted attention and ended in my being bagged myself.

I afterwards found that this was beyond doubt the den of some Ruga-Ruga, and had they been at home at the time of my visit nothing could have saved me from capture, as their intentions were decidedly hostile. Indeed the cause of absence from their domicile was their having gone to the front to lie in wait for the caravan.

I soon rejoined the caravan and we camped at Marwa, respecting which there are some susperstitions. The camping-place is in the midst of a group of enormous rocks, and water can only be obtained by digging at the base of one of the largest of them. This is supposed to cover the site of a village upon which it fell, destroying every one of the inhabitants, and the ghosts of the dead villagers are believed to haunt the place.

Should the spring be disrespectfully spoken of as "Maji" merely - the ordinary word for water - instead of as "Marwa," which in different dialects signifies pombé, palm wine, and other kinds of drink; or should anyone wearing boots pass the spot or fire a gun in the immediate vicinity, the ghosts at once stop the supply. Upon drawing water a small present of beads or cloth is customarily thrown in to propitiate the guardian spirits of the well; and as I declined to conform to this rule, Bombay, fearing some terrible disaster if the full ceremonies were not complied with, made the offering himself.

As a long march lay before us I roused the camp at 3 A.M., but could not get away before five o'clock owing to the pagazi hiding in the jungle to endeavour to escape carrying their loads in the darkness.

When fairly started, Dillon and I left the road in the hope of shooting something for the pot; but a few antelope out of range, and two lions six hundred yards away, quietly strolling home after their night's ramble, were all the game we saw. Unable to get any sport we rejoined the main body, and halted for breakfast at a small pond in which some water still remained, although it had been reported as dried up.

Some Wanyamwési - taking ivory and honey to Unyanyembé - who joined ud the night before now went on by themselves, and much to our atonishment we shortly met them returning in haste and disorder. They reported that they had been attacked by Ruga-Ruga, losing two women slaves, their ivory and honey, and one of their men had been wounded. They also said the Ruga-Ruga were on the look-out for our party, and therefore it behoved us to be careful.

Hearing this, we closed up the caravan, distributed the guns along the line at equal intervals and prepared to resist any attack that might be made on us. And on arriving in the afternoon at a zima of some size we decided to camp and build around us a strong boma, or fence, with one flank resting on the water so that our supply of that necessary article should not be cut off. Soon after sunset a few arrows were shot into camp, and this hostile act being responded to by us with a few shots at some dim and dusky objects outside, seemingly with good effect, we were not again disturbed; but we kept a strict watch and ward all night.

By daylight we were away again and crossed a dry river-bed, the nominal boundary between Yrguru and Unyanyembé, and immediately afterwards came upon clearings and villages surrounded with heavy stockades, outside which were ditches and banks planted with the milk-bush.

We camped at Ituru - being now at last in Unyanyembé with the first stage of our journey across Africa nearly completed - and sent messengers to the Arab governor to inform him of our arrival, etiquette requiring this formal notice before entering an Arab settlement.